20 years after the genocide: Rwanda - a country transformed

The African republic has made an extraordinary turnaround since the horrors of the 1990s. But will its charismatic leader, Paul Kagame, give up power gracefully when the time comes?

by Emma Haslett

A few weeks before I flew to Rwanda to cover the 20th anniversary of its genocide - the three-month period in 1994 during which one million Rwandans were slaughtered - a political opponent of the country's president, Paul Kagame, was murdered in his Johannesburg hotel room. Patrick Karegeya, the country's former spy chief, was found on 1 January, strangled with a curtain cord.

There had been hints from Rwandan government sources that it suspected Karegeya of being one of the brains behind a series of grenade attacks in Kigali, the nation's capital, over the past couple of years.

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