It offers wonderful food, but with all the kitchen action behind the conversation, it really becomes much more of an event. As it's a Gordon Ramsay restaurant, you'd expect everyone to be effing and blinding, but it's a sea of tranquility. Head chef Jason Atherton rules with a huge degree of calm. That's especially difficult with a table of people watching everything you're doing.
Maze offers a tasting menu, which involves you in the whole process. The person responsible for preparing each dish comes over and gives you a graphic description of what has gone into it. It's a far richer experience than just reading the menu, and you get all these tastes coming through. It's fine dining, albeit in a less pompous style.
There's no guarantee that you'll be offered any particular dish, but the lamb was fantastic and melted in the mouth. There was also an array of ice creams - their vanilla tasted nothing like the traditional vanilla and was absolutely exquisite.
I've been taken to Maze by business contacts and it never fails to impress. You go through the main bar and restaurant and into the kitchen, which always feels like a privileged route. Then you walk past everyone prepping the food, and the waiters, and onto a raised area in the middle of the kitchen. It's a bit like an auditorium. As it's a tasting menu you could be there two or three hours, so factor in a decent amount of time.
10-13 Grosvenor Square, London, W1K 6JP, 020 7107 0000,
Chef's table exclusive use for six people
(includes canapes and a glass of champagne)
- Chris Moore is chief executive of Domino's Pizza.