Table Talk: Where David Kershaw eats ..

Meetings rarely bring out honest conversation - they're more like setpieces. But business relationships change when you have enjoyable, relaxed conversations over lunch. I go to St Alban at least once a week. You walk in and feel like the most important customer they've got, and that culture runs all the way down to the person who clears your bread plate away. I've taken staff there to show how to make customers feel good. It's about thoughtfulness - knowing their foibles and reading all the magazines to keep in touch.

Last Updated: 31 Aug 2010

St Alban is a big room but it's carpeted, got a low ceiling and gentle acoustics and lighting. A softer room is perfect for plotting - and some of the best lunches are when you're plotting.

They serve simple Mediterranean food. I can't stand sauces and highfalutin' cooking. I went there today and had a really nice carpaccio with mustard dressing. It was exquisite. And their chorizo and broad beans is one of my favourite things. At the end, they serve squidgy macaroons with your coffee, for that little bit of sin.

St Alban has a fantastic selection of wine by the glass, perhaps 12 or 15 of each colour. I don't drink at lunch from Monday to Thursday, but on Friday I treat myself to a couple of glasses. It's a sad day when an adman like me considers two glasses of wine a wild lunch, but my liver is probably thankful, and I'm still around.

It's a slight uphill walk back to my office, so I can work off that macaroon.

4-12 Regent Street, London, SW1Y 4PE, 020 7499 8558,
Average price for three courses, £30 a head
Broad beans and chorizo (starter) £7.50
Black Angus carpaccio with Dijon mustard dressing £13.75
- David Kershaw is chief executive of M&C Saatchi.

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