Table Talk: Where Jennifer Irvine eats..

I found the Wentworth golf club's Grill one Sunday soon after I moved to Surrey. I really needed a good Yorkshire pudding but didn't want to cook it myself, so I cheated with the Grill's Sunday carvery. It was only later I discovered the owners ran the Ivy too. That explained everything. You get the same level of food and service, but without the waiting list. Now I go twice a week.

Last Updated: 31 Aug 2010

I love the art deco-inspired dining room, a light, airy space with tall ceilings that looks out onto lakes, trees and lawns. But what I like most is the food. They do simple things very well. The fish, for example, is always fantastic. They use every bit of the animal, which I really respect, and their lamb sweetbread is delicious. They also serve Montgomery's cheddar, one of the two genuine traditional cheddars still being made in Somerset. They know how to not wreck good ingredients: Just a simple lump of that on the right bread, with the right chutney. They don't over-season, yet everything has such a delicious flavour.

There's a lovely dish on the menu at the moment - crispy duck served on a watercress salad. It's moist and full of nutrients.

I just love food all the time, and the Grill covers the spectrum. They serve the best full English breakfast you've ever had, but they also do healthy options like kedgeree. And everything they do is cooked perfectly. It feels a world away from everything, so it's great for a brainstorm session, but I don't go there for the golf.

Jennifer Irvine is founder of the Pure Package

Wentworth Grill
Wentworth Drive, Virginia Water, Surrey GU25 4LS, 01344 842201,
Three-course set menu: £25

Recommended dishes
Crispy duck and watercress salad: £9.75
Sauteed lamb sweetbreads: £15.75
Fish of the day: £18.50

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