Table talk

Where Lord March eats ...

by
Last Updated: 31 Aug 2010

Cipriani, right opposite Claridge's in London, is a fantastic place. An offspring of Harry's Bar, the famous hotel in Venice, it is all very Italian - smart and chic with a very fast, professional service. It's well known and very glamorous and, as it's not somewhere everyone would expect to go, it's a fun place to take people.

My choice of venue - whether it's relaxed or very formal - depends on who I'm taking out and why. Sometimes, you want to sit high and spread things out across the table, and I'm a bit of a devil for taking papers along to lunch. But this place is much more relaxed. Everyone is sitting on very low chairs, which gives you a peculiar feeling when you walk in. It's not really the kind of place for thrashing out matters of business. But lunchtimes at Cipriani are fun; it's an intimate place with a lot going on.

My first time there was when someone took me for dinner, after launching the Festival of Speed. I was very impressed. It's beautifully done out inside. It has a lot of wood and a great bar, and a great staircase at the back going down to the loos, with these big portholes in the wall and videos behind them giving the feeling of being at sea, watching the waves going up and down.

I absolutely adore the baked pasta dish at Cipriani. The cold tomato soup is delicious, and they also do great bread and wonderful brioches. And their puddings are amazing - these almighty meringues and tiramisus. Again, it's all very Italian - the cakes aren't simply plated; the staff bringing them out becomes a big theatrical event. Three waiters will arrive at your table with three whole cakes and you choose what you want. It's all a lot of fun.

CIPRIANI
25 Davies Street, London, W1K 3DQ, 0871 0757377, www.cipriani.com
Three-course lunch menu £35
FAVOURITE DISHES
Chilled tomato soup £7
Lightly baked taglioni £15
Tiramisu £10

Lord March is CEO of the Goodwood Estate and its newly opened Kennels clubhouse.

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