Britain's largest staff canteens are serving up, on their formica table tops, the national dishes that would be the most derided of any that might appear on a Maastricht menu. Sutcliffe Catering feeds the workforces of many large companies - Esso, BA and Ford among them - and its list of the top 10 meals of 1992 has steak and kidney pie, roasts, fish and chips and cottage pie as the British worker's favourite fare. It would seem that this is not just an indication of the working man's vulgar palate. The damask-clothed tables of London's illustrious grill rooms continue to be graced by similarly philistine foods. Vladimir Piccoli, the Savoy Grill chef, recalls the stews relished by Churchill and the roasts which expanded the Hitchcock waistline and says they are as popular as ever. Today's menu at the Connaught and Dorchester grills? Well, they are not very different from the one at Reading Bus Garage's canteen. If we are what we eat, we may not be as different as we think.
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